How to Choose the Right Spray Tan Solution for Every Client
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One of the biggest misconceptions in spray tanning is that selecting a solution is simply a matter of choosing "light," "medium," or "dark." In reality, creating a flawless tan requires much more than matching a client's desired depth of color.
A professional spray tan should complement your client's natural complexion, enhance their skin tone, and fade beautifully over time. Achieving that result starts with understanding three key factors: skin type, undertones, and DHA percentage.
Whether you're just beginning your spray tanning career or looking to refine your customization skills, learning how these elements work together will help you deliver consistently natural-looking results.
Why Solution Selection Is So Important
Using the wrong solution can affect far more than the initial color.
When a formula isn't suited for your client's skin, you may notice:
- Orange or overly warm results
- A dull or gray appearance
- Uneven development
- Patchy fading
- Clients who aren't excited to book again
Choosing the appropriate formula allows you to enhance your client's natural coloring instead of working against it. The goal is always a believable bronze that looks effortless, not obvious.
Step 1: Evaluate Your Client's Skin Type
Before choosing a solution, it's helpful to determine where your client falls on the Fitzpatrick Skin Type Scale.
Originally developed for dermatology, the Fitzpatrick Scale classifies skin based on how it reacts to sun exposure. Spray tan professionals use it as a guide when selecting appropriate DHA levels and predicting how color may develop.
The Six Fitzpatrick Skin Types
Type I
Very fair skin that burns easily and rarely develops a natural tan. Clients often have light eyes, freckles, or blonde and red hair.
Type II
Fair skin that typically burns before tanning and develops only minimal natural color.
Type III
Light to medium complexions that may burn initially but gradually tan over time.
Type IV
Olive or medium skin that tans easily and rarely burns.
Type V
Naturally brown skin that develops rich color with minimal burning.
Type VI
Deeply pigmented skin that rarely experiences sunburn and maintains significant natural melanin.
Why Skin Type Matters
Knowing your client's skin type helps you:
- Select an appropriate DHA strength
- Avoid overdeveloping the tan
- Create realistic color depth
- Build a customized experience rather than relying on one formula for everyone
Remember, skin type influences how dark you can comfortably take the tan, but it's only one part of the equation.
Step 2: Identify the Client's Undertones
Once you've assessed skin depth, the next step is determining undertones.
Undertones are the subtle colors beneath the surface of the skin that remain consistent regardless of tanning or seasonal changes. Matching your bronzer base to these undertones can create a more balanced, natural finish for the first few days of wear.
Warm Undertones
Clients with warm undertones often have golden, yellow, or peachy skin. Their veins may appear green, and they usually tan fairly easily.
Many artists find that violet-based or neutral formulas help offset excess warmth and prevent the finished tan from appearing orange.
Cool Undertones
Cool undertones tend to show pink, red, or bluish hues beneath the skin. Veins often appear blue or purple, and these clients may burn before they tan naturally.
Green-based solutions can help soften visible redness while creating a balanced bronze appearance.
Neutral Undertones
Neutral undertones combine characteristics of both warm and cool skin.
Because these clients don't lean strongly in either direction, they typically work well with balanced or neutral solution bases, making customization a bit more forgiving.
Step 3: Select the Appropriate DHA Percentage
After evaluating both skin type and undertones, it's time to choose your DHA level.
DHA is the ingredient responsible for creating the tan, and the percentage determines how much color develops.
While every product line is slightly different, general recommendations include:
- 6–8% DHA: Soft, natural-looking color that works well for lighter complexions.
- 8–10% DHA: Medium bronze that suits many clients and can often be layered.
- 10–12% or higher: Rich, deeper results for clients with darker complexions or those wanting a bold bronze.
Rather than choosing DHA based only on how dark someone wants to be, consider:
- Their natural skin tone
- Desired final result
- Upcoming events
- Development time
- Previous spray tanning experience
These factors help create results that look intentional instead of overdone.
Step 4: Customize the Entire Appointment
Exceptional spray tan artists don't rely on a standard formula for every client.
Instead, they adjust the service based on each person's unique needs.
Questions to consider include:
- Are they tanning for a wedding, vacation, or photo session?
- Have they been spray tanned before?
- Is their skin currently dry, sensitive, or dehydrated?
- Do they prefer a subtle glow or a deeper bronze?
- Would a rapid rinse formula better fit their schedule?
These small adjustments create a luxury experience that clients remember and they're often the reason clients choose to return.
Common Mistakes New Artists Make
Even experienced artists can occasionally overlook important details.
Some of the most common mistakes include:
- Selecting a solution based only on the client's requested darkness.
- Ignoring undertones when choosing a bronzer base.
- Using the same DHA percentage for every appointment.
- Increasing DHA when a different undertone would have produced a better result.
Creating Better Results Starts with Better Customization
Beautiful spray tans aren't created by chance.
They're the result of understanding how skin type, undertones, and solution strength work together to complement each individual client.
As your confidence in customization grows, you'll begin to notice several benefits:
- More consistent results
- Increased client confidence
- Better retention and referrals
- A stronger reputation as a knowledgeable professional
Those are the qualities that separate an average spray tan artist from one clients actively recommend.
Professional Solutions Designed for Custom Results
At X-Tan Sunless, we've created professional solutions that make customization simple without sacrificing consistency.
Our Bronzite collection features a neutral brown base designed to deliver natural-looking color across a wide range of skin tones. For artists who want even greater flexibility, Bronzite Drops make it easy to adjust undertones using red, green, or violet modifiers instead of stocking countless separate solutions.
If you're ready to deepen your understanding of color theory and client customization, our Skin Types & Solutions Masterclass takes an even closer look at selecting the ideal solution for every appointment.
The better you understand your client's skin, the more confidently you'll create spray tans that look effortless, last beautifully, and keep clients coming back.